Tag Archives: Pat Mcgrath

Pat McGrath’s New ‘Unlimited’ Makeup Collection is Fall’s First Mandatory Beauty Binge

After more than two years of maintaining statecraft levels of secrecy, Pat McGrathsteps into a glass conference room in her Manhattan studio and snaps the curtains closed, fussing over the gossamer fabric to make sure her staff can’t peek inside. “No one has seen this yet,” she says giddily, unloading a series of tubes and compacts from a bejeweled Prada sac—a gift from Miuccia—onto two velvet-lined trays. It is an early morning in late May, a few days before the influential makeup artist will accept the Founder’s Award at the CFDA Awards, and a few weeks before she will fly to Paris to create a holographic crimson lip for Maison Margiela, a highlight of the fall couture calendar. Today’s reveal marks another milestone for McGrath, one that is particularly special to her: After 25 years in the industry, and six limited-run launches from her brand, Pat McGrath Labs, “Mother”—as she is commonly known in the fashion community—is ready to reveal her first core collection of color cosmetics. “It’s major,” she whispers.

Whether McGrath—who is regularly summoned by Donatella Versace, John Galliano, and brands like Alexander McQueen and Valentino—would launch a full line was never a matter of if, but when. Following years of developing for other people, the self-proclaimed “ultimate makeup junkie” struck out on her own in 2015, flash-selling one-off creations produced by a group of handpicked international cosmetics factories. The wildly popular glitter-lip kits and metallic-eye foils nodded to McGrath’s “hoards” of samples and vintage compacts that are cataloged in a vaultlike space downtown. “But these products represent the crown jewels of my archive,” she says of the three shadow palettes, 40 lipsticks, five eye pencils, eleven lip pencils, “and one magnificent mascara” that round out the new range. (McGrath is mum on whether foundation and other skin-perfecters are in the works, emphasizing that, for now, she is focused on “resetting the rules of how color can be worn.”)

voguerunway-share

Labs and its frenzy-inducing, digital-only deals will continue to “push the limits of what makeup is about,” McGrath insists. But the core collection, which hits patmcgrath.com at midnight on September 16th and Sephora counters, where it will be available exclusively, in early October, manages to more formally harness the drama, fantasy, and personal touch that are McGrath hallmarks: a thumbprint of her new, perfectly pitched shimmering lilac shadow with the give of velvet and the texture of silk, pressed daintily onto model Yasmin Wijnaldum’s lids at Peter Dundas’s resort debut this summer; an unbelievable powder-laced lipstick that models were demanding backstage at Prada’s resort show, where McGrath workshopped samples of the impossibly matte, yet ultra-creamy cherry-colored pigment. “I drove myself and my team mad in pursuit of a level of excellence on a timeline that no beauty conglomerate could ever allow,” she says of these exacting details, honed over decades of on-set experience—and a lot of arm-swatching.

“Her makeup is more of an art form,” says Slick Woods of what makes McGrath’s products so cultish. The model’s career skyrocketed last year after she joined the small army of McGrath’s muses, who are often scouted via Instagram, a platform she has leveraged to foster real-world collaboration better than most; beyond a mere #regram, McGrath has recruited members of her team through liked posts, and found “terrifically talented” artists to illustrate her custom packaging. That kind of democratizing spirit is deeply resonant. “That’s why I respect Pat’s work the most,” Woods adds.

Source:

http://www.vogue.com/article/pat-mcgrath-labs-makeup-unlimited-edition-mothership-eye-palettes-pencils-lipsticks

Advertisements

How Pat McGrath became the world’s most influential makeup artist

In 20 years of interviewing actors, musicians, designers and artists, my audience with Pat McGrath has been the most difficult. Not because she’s chilly or aloof (she’s tactile, warm, prone to outbursts of laughter and the lavish use of “darling”), but because not a minute goes by without a passerby interrupting to tell her how much they admire her, and to my frustration, she spends much of our precious allotted time indulging them.

“You look beautiful, darling,” she purrs to one beauty blogger, as worried publicists look on impatiently. “Let me get someone from my team to do your makeup! It’ll be gorgeous on you,” she says to another. She stops again to pose for a photograph with actor Olivia Palermo (who seems under no illusion that she might be the main attraction here), then again to reel off some social media content and to check an assistant has her trainers. By then our “intimate chat”, in a bustling Parisian penthouse, is rather up against it, because McGrath is due to get on a motorbike to the Ritz, where an unnamed celebrity is waiting to be made up for the red carpet.

She promises a follow-up within days, and so begins almost a fortnight of postponements, briefing calls, time-zone complications and several profuse apologies as beauty’s biggest hitter paints, dusts and blends her way across dozens of faces and two continents. Truly, I have interviewed more accessible Oscar winners.

‘I just love cosmetics’ … Pat McGrath.
FacebookTwitterPinterest
 ‘I just love cosmetics’ … Pat McGrath. Photograph: Ben Hassett

The reason I’ve been granted this extremely rare face time with the world’s most influential makeup artist is that she’s just launched her eponymous makeup line, Pat McGrath Labs, in Europe. The brand has already smashed the US, where McGrath lives in two New York West Village apartments, one above the other, though she is barely ever in either. She’s mostly on the road, working on magazine covers for the likes of Vogue, Harpers and W, the faces of celebrities such as Rihanna and Kim Kardashian, on advertising campaigns for Versace, Prada, Louis Vuitton and Gucci, and designing the makeup looks for around 80 major fashion shows per year (she is widely acknowledged as the most prolific catwalk makeup artist of all time). She travels from one fashion capital to another with dozens of makeup cases and a huge team of between 25 and 90 devoted artists to carry them all. “The most we’ve ever taken is 87 trunks,” she tells me. “I’ve collected everything for about 25 years. I’d go into a department store now and buy everything. It’s who I am. I just love cosmetics.”

 

McGrath qualifies this by telling me that she has filled 4,000 square feet of storage with products and says “You couldn’t get anyone more makeup addicted than me”, perhaps because she knows her passion for face paint isn’t immediately apparent. Much like the most celebrated fashion experts wear only black (she does, too – today she’s in a long black skirt, matching shirt and her signature wide black headband), the world’s top makeup artist doesn’t appear to be wearing the stuff herself. “I wear very natural makeup but it’s made up out of five foundations to make that perfect skin and my lipstick might be three different lipsticks mixed together, so it’s a kind of obsession in a different way,” she laughs.

If beauty is McGrath’s addiction, her single mother was her pusher. McGrath was raised in Northampton by Jean, whose love of God was matched only by an extraordinary fascination with everything fashion and beauty. From as early as McGrath can remember, working class, Jamaican-born, Jehovah’s Witness Jean was schooling her in advanced aesthetic awareness. “My mother was obsessed with makeup,” she says. “She would stand in front of the TV and we’d have to guess what she’d done differently with her eyes. I’d think: ‘Get out of the way!’ But she wouldn’t move until I’d told her.” Together they would analyse the makeup looks of Old Hollywood film stars, identifying which had inspired fashion designers that season.

bd2d5a10-6c35-11e4-82e3-9935a7dd3aff_10727291_403063513185079_1780303532_n

Jean encouraged McGrath to be creative with makeup, mixing pigments from scratch to get exactly the right colour, adding heat to the skin with her fingertips to give it a healthier glow and soften the look of foundation. She explains: “She always put on a full face of makeup then got in the bath to get that dewy finish. It was next level, but this is where I got my makeup tips from – at seven years old!” Together, Jean (a talented dressmaker) and McGrath would go and look at Vogue patterns, then off to the market, where all the fabric buyers sold their remnants, before deciding which makeup would best go with the clothes.

Source:

https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2017/aug/06/beauty-queen-how-pat-mcgrath-revolutionised-makeup

 

Pat McGrath Is Launching Lust MatteTrance Lipsticks — Here Are the Details

From now on, in my opinion, there are two kinds of lipstick: lipsticks made by Pat McGrath and lipsticks made by everyone else. Today, McGrath revealed the details of her next product and the closest she’s gotten to a “traditional” makeup launch (or as close as she could ever get to traditional) — a line of nine classic bullet lipsticks called Pat McGrath Labs Lust MatteTrance.

 

As with any of McGrath’s launches, there are many reasons why the Lust MatteTrance lipsticks are special, first and foremost being that she brings over 25 years of experience working with the most famous photographers and models in the business and consulting for numerous makeup brands. Over the past two decades she’s tried out nearly every lipstick that has ever launched, meaning she knows a thing or two about what makes a good bullet and what doesn’t. She also brings her diverse sources of inspiration and unique vision about makeup, as you can see with this video about the launch that McGrath shared exclusively with Allure below.

Let’s start with the formula, which McGrath painstakingly labored over for years to get just right — an intense matte that isn’t too dry and feels feather light. “I didn’t want a matte that felt like concrete,” she said, hinting at the current obsession for heavy-duty, long-lasting matte liquid lipsticks that feel (and look) like shrink wrap over your mouth. “This formula doesn’t mask the natural texture of your lips,” she explains. “It works beautifully on top of a lip pencil, swiped on straight from the tube, or — how I always like to apply lipstick — tapped on with fingers.” In fact the formula was tweaked particularly so it could be used for that purpose. “Most lipsticks, even mattes, are little greasy, but the Lust MatteTrance shades almost have a powdery finish; in fact, they feel and look like pure pigment, the payoff is incredible.”

Hannah Choi/Allure

Getting to try the formula at the event, I can confirm this formula feels weightless and totally comfortable (more spandex, less shrink wrap…in fact, not even close to shrink wrap). And I’m not the only one who noticed the difference. When testing the lipsticks at Prada’s fall 2017 show back in February, the models kept asking McGrath and her team what they were using (it was a mix of two of the new lipsticks, de-potted into unmarked, clear jars). “They were so impressed by how it felt that they wanted to know what it was — I can tell you that rarely happens,” laughs McGrath.

McGrath created the shades to work on all skin tones, each of which can be purchased individually or as part of a three-piece set (but alas, like the rest of her products, they’re limited edition and only available until supplies last). “When you package them together, it allows you to mix the colors and create ombré and other special effects,” says McGrath. “It also gives you options if you’re a person who loves brights, or loves nudes, or love darks.”

Courtesy of brand

There are the nudes, all packaged in The Batch: Skin Show, a kit that includes Omi (a mid-tone rose), 1995 (a brownish-nude), and Flesh 3 (a dark chocolate-y rose). The Batch: Colour Blitz, is a trio of bright hues including Elson (a true, blue-based red), Obsessed! (a bright, non-chalky orange), and Full Panic (fuchsia); and finally there’s The Batch: Vicious Venoms, which is a set of darks that includes Antidote (an orchid purple), McMenamy (a deep burgundy), and Deep Void (a moody blackberry). And while McGrath says that each one of these shades have a special meaning to her — colors she’s used continuously throughout her career on editorial shoots and on her muses — there are three colors that could be considered extra special, made specifically for — and named after — a few of the makeup artist’s lifelong friends and muses. “Omi” is based off a custom color McGrath has mixed for model Naomi Campbell for years, while Elson is the specific shade of red McGrath made for model Karen Elson, and McMenamy is a browny-beige McGrath created just for ’90s model icon, Kristin McMenamy.

Courtesy of brand

When it comes to the packaging, this marks the first time McGrath has designed her own, the previous launches coming in plain, black plastic compacts to better allow the innovative formulas to take center stage. Not this time. McGrath wanted the tube to feel glamorous — something you don’t mind whipping out of your purse and showing off — and to have a touch nostalgic. The black tubes are metal, versus plastic, and have gold detailing, giving them an Old Hollywood vibe and a feeling of cool weightiness when held in the palm of your hand. Then there’s the pair of 3-dimensional lips right at the base, a nod to surrealism, according to McGrath, which is a recurring theme throughout her work.

Courtesy of brand

And if you haven’t already gotten the point that McGrath agonized over every, little, detail of this product, there’s the bullet itself. First, the part of the bullet you swipe over the lips is more convex than the average lipstick, which gives you a stronger pigment payoff on your first swipe. Then there’s the fact that when you twist up the bullet, those gold lips on the tube will always face forward, giving you the perfect #selfie-quality picture every single time. “I didn’t realize this would be something that would take extensive work because the machines that twist the bullet into the tube don’t work like that,” says McGrath. “But in the end, we made it work and you can always show off your bullet.”

With such attention to packaging, could this perhaps be a hint of what a full-fledged, permanent Pat McGrath Labs line could look like? Here’s hoping, but for now, McGrath is relishing in the fact this most recent labor of love is finally out in the open. “I’ve been carrying the tubes around in my purse for a year now, hiding them from everyone,” she laughs. “And I’m so excited to finally share them with my muses, my team, with everyone, because a lot went into this launch and they’re really very, very special.”

Both the Pat McGrath Labs Lust MatteTrance individual lipsticks ($38 each) and three-piece kits ($95 each) will be available starting July 13th on patmcgrath.com and on Sephora.com on July 28th. You can also buy the Everything Kit, which includes all six shades, for $275.

Source:

http://www.allure.com/story/pat-mcgrath-lust-mattetrance-lipsticks